This one goes straight into my wish list, and it will stay there for a while, as it’s pretty darn expensive (about 100$ for a 50ml bottle).
Serge Lutens Gris Clair opens with lavender, whose smell is normally pleasant and fresh, but also potentially flat and boring. But not here, not in this one, here it’s pimped with green aromatic notes. They came out especially when I inhaled deeply and with the nose on skin. I got mainly rosemary, but something minty is also there. This business for two, the fresh/clean and the green/aromatic is a simple, fascinating opening.
In less than an hour, a dense floral knocks at the door, but it won’t be a party pooper. Unlike other fragrances, where florals take over the scene in a thanks-guys-but-I-need-space-here kind of way, here they will engage with the other notes, creating an accord where three is not a crowd, and it’s a typical example where 1+1+1= 4. There’s an intense floral, which is also clean and herbal. And then there are clean lavender notes, which get slapped a bit by a dense floralcy, but also comforted by the herbs. And finally, a harsh greenness, which is not just along for the ride. Just a perfect balance.
At an advanced stage, the floral notes of Gris Clair will still be transformed and made gentler by lavender. The green side will subside, and substituted by a light sweetness, which had somehow always been there lurking. The dry down is where the woods come out, but again, lavender is sill there to leave its clean footprint.
After so many powerful and arrogant florals, Gris Clair by Serge Lutens is the revenge of delicacy. Gotta have it, no diggity, no doubt.