After Guerlain’s La Petite Robe Noir, Diesel Loverdose, and Lolita Lempicka, I seem to stumble upon liquorice a lot these days, this time with Aquolina Pink Fragrance. This is different from the other three though, in the sense that its sweetness is more straightforward and less sophisticated.
In other words, it’s a sweet perfume for those women who like sweet perfumes. Pink sugar is another word for cotton candy after all. Yet, there is more than that to it, and liquorice would be one. It’s quite strong since the beginning, and the fact that it mixes with sugar, makes the floral note really struggle to come out. After five minutes, it feels like the sweet and floral sides are imploding into each other, making the fragrance tip on its toes, wrapped in a muffled bitter-sweet layer, although it never gives up a certain floralcy. In the dry down, sweet notes change towards a warmer mix of vanilla and chocolate, very much expected and appropriate.
Bitter and sweet indeed go great together, just like in Lolita Lempicka. Fair play to Pink Sugar then: for a fragrance that was meant to be sweet, it’s quite light, and the bitterness offers an interest contrast. Liquorice in perfumes is a little like tea: you either like it or not. And so is sweetness, so expect a black or white reaction to it if you try it.