Cartier Must Perfume for men is a rare case where the masculine flanker is not totally different from the original feminine. Launched in 2000, 19 years after the original, it was born from the nose of Nathalie Feisthauer (Eau des Merveilles by Hermes).
It starts with anise, mint and also sour citrus notes. This cold mix is tamed by musk, and that’s why anise won’t chill the nostrils as it does in Fuel for Life Diesel. Mainly anise is what I had for the first hour, and just when I was starting to think that even the most exciting things become boring when you push them for too long, at some point a change started to occur: anise very slowly left the scene, leaving a musk of an animalic but sweet kind, probably because it was coupled with sandalwood.
The advanced phase of Must De Cartier Perfume is indeed quite similar to the feminine version at the same stage, with the difference that the latter is vanilla-sweeter and this pour homme is muskier. And of course, anise is still there, with the musk and the woods. And rightly so, as it’s a very cool note and it would have been a waste to make it disappear completely. And the orange is also there at times, a red orange with sweet juice.
Must De Cartier for men is a mature perfume for mature guys, and it’s good for winter time. Just like Must for women, it won’t shout, but sure has a distinct voice. If the hard task of this masculine vesion was to live up to the level of fame of the feminine version, I think that the mission was only partly accomplished. I don’t blame the perfume though: it’s an excellent one after all, it’s just that the bar was too high.