Fleur d’Oranger by L’Artisan Parfumeur was my first encounter with orange blossom, the main flower it’s based on. It turned out to be a warm and interesting conversation. You know, like it happens with those people who have a strong mind and a lot of interesting things to say. And what this L’Artisan Parfumeur fragrance has to say, what it has to give to you, is tough love.
In the opening, you’ll get the citrusy zest of the orange flower, and the green. But this is not your usual freshly-cut grass green, it’s unripe and hard, as if there were green spiky leaves in there. In this phase, skin beats blotter 10 to 1, at least until the dry drown, where they end up in the same place. On paper the fragrance is too afraid to offend, still green and orangey but with no harshness. On the skin, on the other hand, it won’t have any qualm about saying unpleasant true things with a calm voice. It’s the kind of things that first make you want to get up and leave, but then will make you glad you stayed.
When the thorny floral has showed itself enough, a coat of animalicity will join. Maybe it’s another floral like lily, maybe it’s the proper orange flower that is now more free to come out, when the arrogant leaves relax their guard a little. And after that, the tough part is over: Fleur d’Oranger L’Artisan Parfumeur will melt the animal and green side together, rounding off the edges, and the green leaves will lose the spikes.
In the end the green and citrus notes are fresh and clean, and the perfume starts to be more attractive, I’m not sure if it’s wine or the fact that it started to smile.
I absolutely loved this one, it’s simple and feels super natural. It won’t show you many changes but, the few ones will be subtle. The sample I got was a limited edition of 2005, based on the orange blossom harvest of the previous year. Another one came out in 2007 and 2011. It was created by Ane Filipo (Lady Million Paco Rabanne, La Nuit de L’Homme Yves Saint Laurent).