Perfume l’Eau d’Issey was one of the first fragrances for women to use calone, a synthetic compound that gives out the feeling of sea breeze. That is probably the main reason why it is often described as a fresh floral. To me though, it’s not that fresh at all.
True, in the (quite interesting) opening, the florals are carried by a marine ozonic breeze with also soft fruity melon notes, but then the freshness gradually disappears. Not that you’ll be smelling a dense powerhouse floral in the end, but it’s like the flowers gradually emerge from water, until you pick them up and bring them home with you. You will still feel the presence of water, but nice and dry is what they’ll be. So, the definition of L’Eau Dissey in Issey Miyake’s website “when flower meets water” is appropriate, if taken literally: they meet, but don’t mix.
The bouquet may not unfold immediately, but when it does, it’s very feminine, very floral, and even slightly green at times. And just because it’s not that fresh, make sure you don’t spray too much of it, or it may even be slightly oppressing. In the base notes the bouquet will still be classic, pushing woodsy and amber notes that make it warmer.
Although L’Eau Issey Miyake is a great perfume from beginning to end, I found the first part more interesting, when freshness is still alive, the full density is yet to come, and the classic florals are swept by a bitter tea-leaf note (I don’t know lotus flower, but it’s known as bitter, so that’s where it probably comes from).
This Issey Miyake perfume is still a hit after 20 years, and in its time was worn by practically everyone. It was launched in 1992 and created by Jacques Cavallier (who also made Fuel For Life Homme, Nina by Nina Ricci, and the first Stella McCartney). If you like floral fragrances that smell like real flowers, or they make you believe they do, then try this one if you haven’t already.