Probably not the best choice, reviewing this in one of the hottest weeks that Ireland has ever offered… What I’m sampling here is not the original Caleche, created in 1961 by Guy Robert, but the Soie de Parfum edition, and I’m not sure what type of concentration it is. Strangely enough, there is not a lot of info on this fragrance, according to NST it was created in 1992.
Soie Caleche By Hermes contains aldehydes, which are synthetic molecules made famous by Chanel n.5. They come in different forms (go nuts and read all about it here) with different qualities. The ones in Hermes Perfume Caleche are bright and electric on one side, and bitter on the other, which translates into a mix of sourness and body odour.
On top of the aldehydic base, there are dense floral notes, enhancing the dirty-bright facet, and the result is indeed quite complex and deep: a sort of leathery old-smelling dirtiness, made gentler by florals. Or, in other words, a sophisticated unpleasantness, with which Caleche Hermes Perfume plays in a classy way. To me, that is Hermes’ signature, at least in some of the perfumes I tried so far. After all, it’s Hermes and they can afford to do that. The dry down will be more pleasant, more floral, and with a certain sweet edge.
Caleche Perfume By Hermes is warm and enveloping, not delicate, and sure not for the summer, although its classiness rounds off the angles, giving an effect of velvet glove in an iron fist.