Guilty Pour Homme And Black Review: Too Far Gucci, Too Far

Gucci Guilty Pour Homme and Guilty Black

For the first time I’ll have to break the one-perfume-one-review rule, but it would have been impossible to describe Gucci Guilty Pour Homme (2011) and the PH Black version (2013) with a decent number of words, if I had done it separately.   They both put together a little bit of this and a little bit of that, creating a dark and hazy cloud of aromatic, spicy and clean notes, which never gets to get a shape. Perhaps, if you’re […] Read more »

Mahogany by Etro Review

This is an ultra-niche perfume and it’s maybe discontinued, as there’s no mentioned in the Italian fashion house. But hey, it’s part of a conspicuous set of sample that I ordered  a while ago to practice different olfactive families and perfume (just like food) should  not be wasted.   Mahogany in particular has vetiver as main note, which is a grass but, when used in perfumery, it becomes part of the woods family thanks to its.. well.. woodsy smell. So, […] Read more »

Magnolia Nobile by Acqua Di Parma starts sparklingly sour, with just ever so vague fruity notes. And then it settles down, getting rid of the sour asperities, and becoming delicate all the way. Gotta love magnolia, it’s a floral I’m shamelessly attracted to. I like its gentle and kind spirit. Is it a thing that comes with age, maybe? I mean, being attracted to feminine kindness?   Many reviews at Fragrantica lamented a too overpowering lemon note, but in my […] Read more »

Carnal Flower By Dominique Ropion Review

Tuberose has a bad reputation in perfumes (and for a reason) as one of the most potentially evil of white flowers. But this Carnal Flower Malle is different. On the skin this  starts immediately with a balsamic minty greenness, which tames the power of the florals density. This balsamic side is a peculiar, quite unexpected counterpart to the floralcy of tuberose, and it’s almost harsh on the throat.   The blotter is way richer. Whereas on the skin there are […] Read more »

L'Artisan Fleur d'Oranger Perfume Review

Fleur d’Oranger by L’Artisan Parfumeur was my first encounter with orange blossom, the main flower it’s based on. It turned out to be a warm and interesting conversation. You know, like it happens with those people who have a strong mind and a lot of interesting things to say. And what this L’Artisan Parfumeur fragrance has to say, what it has to give to you, is tough love.   In the opening, you’ll get the citrusy zest of the orange […] Read more »

Serge Lutens A La Nuit Review

My first one-to-one encounter with jasmine happened by night, with A La Nuit by Serge Lutens. It opens almost gourmand, but not because it’s sweet or fruity, it’s still floral, but a floral you could eat. This sense of edibility will move back quickly when jasmine takes the stage, but will remain throughout, in the form of vague sweet and creamy notes.   The main theme is jasmine, coupled with a certain sourness that comes and goes, but it’s when […] Read more »

Baghari Piguet Perfume Review

If you’re not used to aldehydes and there’s no other strong note to contrast them (like florals in Chanel n. 5 for example), chances are that you’ll get a WTF moment when you smell them. At least, this is what happened to me with Baghari Robert Piguet perfume.   Aldehydses are organic compounds with an unique smell, which is hard to pinpoint because it doesn’t remember of anything that exists in nature. An approximation I can think of, is a […] Read more »

Patchouli Patch By L'artisan Parfumeur Review

Patchouli Patch Eau de toilette is weird stuff. It starts with a nasty mix of anise and caraway seeds, and the result is herbaceous, aromatic and bitter. When patchouli enters, a couple of minutes behind, what you’ll have under your nose is a an obscure magic herbal infusion, one that would probably cure love pains and resentment.   As this Harry Potterish spell vanishes, Patchouli Patch By L’artisan Parfumeur becomes more friendly on the nose, leaving a linear patchouli without […] Read more »