A La Nuit Perfume Serge Lutens Review: Close│Inhale

Serge Lutens A La Nuit Review

My first one-to-one encounter with jasmine happened by night, with A La Nuit by Serge Lutens. It opens almost gourmand, but not because it’s sweet or fruity, it’s still floral, but a floral you could eat. This sense of edibility will move back quickly when jasmine takes the stage, but will remain throughout, in the form of vague sweet and creamy notes.   The main theme is jasmine, coupled with a certain sourness that comes and goes, but it’s when […] Read more »

Tom Ford Private Blend Purple Patchouli

Purple Patchouli Tom Ford was part of the original lot of the Private Blend collection and it’s been discontinued now, although it can still be found (same destiny of Velvet Gardenia).   What’s this perfume all about and where is patchouli anyway? If you really want to look for it, it’s there, but it’s green, earthy, and mixed with heavy florals, almost undetectable. There is also a vinyl protection (it must be the note of leather that other reviewers felt), […] Read more »

Velvet Gardenia Tom Ford Perfume Review

I used to live under the (wrong) assumption that fragrances which are mainly based on one floral can be complex, but tend to be fairly static. Until I tried Tom Ford Velvet Gardenia.   So, where should I start from, top notes maybe? Fennel, that’s what I got: green, fragrant fennel, but with still a floral smell in the background to remind me that I was sitting in a Starbucks and not in my dad’s vegetable garden.  Actually, there is […] Read more »

Annick Goutal Ninfeo Mio Review

Ninfeo Mio opens with an assault of the harshest citrus notes you could ever imagine. It’s green, unripe, it’s live. After about half an hour, a transition starts towards fig. In all this fizzy start, there is also a very subdued, yet constant warm feeling of woods. They’re there and they’re not there…   As it turned out, I’m quite fig-challenged. Fig was all over the reviews of this Annick Goutal perfume, and when I finally managed to feel it, […] Read more »

Hermes Jardin En Mediterranee Review

This is the third experience with a Hermes perfume from the Un Jardin series, after Sur Le Nil and Sur Le Toit. The first was almost unbearable (sorry, Jean-Claude), while the second was great. With Un Jardin En Mediterranee Perfume, I think I finally started to grasp a common thread in the series (Apres Le Mousson is the fourth and last one, we’ll see if this thing is confirmed), which I would call a powdery ripeness.   To simplify, the […] Read more »

Fico Di Amalfi Acqua Di Parma Perfume Review

The main accord of this Acqua Di Parma Perfume puts together fig with lemon, which is the fruit Amalfi is really famous for. Nothing gourmand here then, the fig is indeed quite green. There are more peel and leaves than pulp, the citrus side is stinging and sour, and the green notes make it almost similar to petit-grain.   All the above comes with a group of aquatic and floral notes, which give the overall feeling of a whole orchard […] Read more »

Un Jardin Sur Le Toit By Hermes Perfume Review

Before I try and describe Un Jardin Sur Le Toit, let me share a nagging feeling I’m having. If perfume is a form of art, then Ellena is one of the top artists. And what I’m starting to feel is the same discomfort that a non-expert in art feels in front of a work of an important painter, and asks himself: that’s really beautiful, but… what’s so great in here?   And believe me, that is not meant as a […] Read more »

Un Jardin Sur Le Nil By Hermes For Women And Men

After reading the whole story of its creation in Chandler Burr’s The Perfect Scent I had great expectations for this one. I know Jean-Claude Ellena is a regular reader of this blog (OK, that is, of course, not true, but wouldn’t it be cool if it was, and throw this out in your face with fake casualness?), so I’m sure he’ll understand, after all, his Declaration is my favourite perfume.   OK I’ll say it in one single breath: I […] Read more »