Forget about summer, and fresh, and fruity: this is a classy oriental, date of launch 1981 (created by Jean-Jacques Diener) and still fully deserving its place in the perfume stores shelves.
The opening is, well, it smells mainly of ash, but in a very good way. There is also warm and sweet-ish orange, and a feeling that it’s a winter fragrance but a very gentle one. This type of opening in Must Cartier Perfume gives an idea of what’s to follow, and it doesn’t take too long before it becomes sweeter and spicier, with a very warm sandalwood, which is backed up by musk. There is also supposed to be a whole bunch of different flowers there, but I doubt you’ll have that in mind when you wear this.
Still at this point, and until the end, it shows a controlled force. It’s a fragrance that doesn’t need to shout to assert its personality. The volume of the voice is just normal, but you will hear it nonetheless. The finale is just as one would expect it: ashy, spicy (mainly cinnamon), powdery, warm, vanilla-sweet (but just the right amount), and also slightly fortified.
Although not extremely intense – if you’re easy enough on the trigger, you may wear it in the office without intruding other people’s noses – Cartier Must Perfume is strong and wrapping, like one of those thin blankets that turn out to be very warm. Blankets are for cold days, and so is this one.